All Culinary Artist Should Train Here’: Unassuming Turkish Restaurant Ranks 4th on Ranking of London’s Top Food Spots.

Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. However, tucked high among these food titans is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Shocking Honour

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the owners totally astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” states a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest place securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.

Mrs. Catherine Phillips
Mrs. Catherine Phillips

A digital strategist and tech writer with over a decade of experience covering emerging trends in the UK's online landscape.

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